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We start in Vietnam’s capital, Hanoi, a
delightful mélange of traditional and contemporary styles
strongly influenced by the French, Chinese, and Soviet styles,
as well as by its Vietnamese heritage. For its size, Hanoi is
accessible and friendly, with a youthful, energetic pulse. We'll
visit ancient treasures by day and enjoy fine food and a taste
of Hanoi's nightlife.
After spending one full day exploring the
capital, we journey into the mountains and valleys northwest of
Hanoi to experience up close the cultural diversity of rural
Vietnam. We bike along meandering rivers, next to historic
battlefields, down forest-clad mountainsides, and through
mountain villages lost in time. We'll savor the diversity of
Vietnamese cuisine, be it a simple bowl of pho noodles or an
entire feast, and we'll delight in the views of terraced
hillsides, waterfalls, and of Fan Si Pan, Indochina's highest
peak.
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Most flights arrive in Hanoi in the late
evening, so we have no official tour activities scheduled for
today. However, if enough people are arriving early for the
tour, our tour director may organize an informal walking tour of
the city in the afternoon.
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Today we have a full day and evening to
explore the sights and wonders of Hanoi. After breakfast at the
hotel, we'll see Hanoi's Belle Époque neighborhoods that evoke
the French colonial era. One of our first stops is a visit to
the complex dedicated to the national hero: the Ho Chi Minh
Complex. Completed in 1975, the complex contains Ho Chi Minh’s
granite and concrete mausoleum that is reminiscent of Lenin's
tomb, the Ho Chi Minh museum, the beautiful Presidential Palace
built by the French in 1901, and behind it, Uncle Ho's former
stilt-house residence, where he resided from 1958 to 1969. It's
quite an experience as you queue alongside Vietnamese people,
many of whom have made a long pilgrimage to the site.
Appropriate, respectful attire is required.
Shortly after the founding of Hanoi as
Thang Long (“Soaring Dragon”) in the eleventh century,
construction started on the Temple of Literature and what has
become the National University. We visit the two entities built
there: Van Mieu, built in 1070 as a temple to the Chinese
philosopher Confucius, and Quoc tu Giam, built six years later
as an elite institute established to teach the doctrines and
teachings of Confucius and his disciples. Inside are 82 stone
stelae (tablets) dating between 1484 and 1790, mounted on the
backs of giant tortoises. The stelae, beautifully inscribed
stone slabs, list the names, dates, places of birth, and
achievements of over 1300 men who earned their doctorates here.
The temple and university are architectural wonders honoring
knowledge and those who pursue the rigorous path of learning.
After lunch, we will continue our tour,
perhaps visiting the Museum of Ethnology, widely acknowledged as
the best in the country, with an extensive display dedicated to
Vietnam's 54 ethnic minority peoples, including traditional
tribal houses.
Later we wander to legendary Hoan Kiem
Lake, Lake of the Restored Sword, and the 13th century Ngoc Con
Temple located on a tiny island in the middle of the lake. Hoan
Kiem Lake, considered the center of the city, is the source of
many legends. One Arthurian legend has it that in the 15th
century Emperor Le Thai To vanquished the invading Chinese with
the help of a magical sword. Not long afterward, while rowing on
the lake, an enormous turtle seized the sword from his grasp.
The Emperor took this to mean that peace was at hand, that the
sword had been given back to its guardian spirit. History
reveals that peace was ushered in for the next several
centuries. The Emperor then renamed the lake in honor of his
Restored Sword.
Before dinner we have a special Asian
treat, a one hour cyclo (pedi-cab) tour through the Old Quarter:
Also known as the 36 streets, this bustling area of narrow
streets is home to literally thousands of small businesses and
shopkeepers. Originally each of the 36 streets' names was
related to the trade or guild formerly featured there and in
large part the different trades remain close together: silks,
silver, and antiques among others. It's also a great place to
explore on foot with numerous photo and shopping opportunities.
While breakfast and lunch are provided today, dinner is on your
own, allowing you an opportunity to try your choice of Hanoi’s
many excellent restaurants and cafés.
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In the morning we drive out of Hanoi in our
support vehicle, heading west to the town of Son La, site of a
former French garrison. This will be our starting point when our
cycling begins tomorrow morning.
Son La is located in a scenic valley
inhabited by Tai, Muong and Hmong and other minority ethnic
people. Vietnam's population is about ninety percent Viet (Kinh)
with 54 ethnic minority groups comprising the remaining ten
percent. Our journey will introduce us to many of these brightly
dressed, friendly people. They are referred to by many names: to
the French they are the Montagnards; to many locals they are
hill tribes; but the current favored name is ethnic minority
groups. Regardless of the term, each encounter with the local
people will provide a smile and a wonderful memory. These people
continue to live with the same customs and traditions they have
for centuries, independently and in small rural communities
scattered through the valleys and in the mountains. Many travel
by foot, bicycle, or horse cart to larger towns to trade wares
at weekly markets. For the next seven days we encounter them in
their colorful, quiet life as we cycle by their lush farms and
through quaint villages.
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After a short drive to Tuan Gaio, our cycling
begins through the visually stunning terrain of the Muong Thanh
Valley to Dien Bien Phu. Long associated with the stunning
defeat of the French, Dien Bien Phu is set in a valley
surrounded by thick ancient forests on steep mountainsides and
dotted with an occasional farm or village. With the French long
gone, the area is once again rugged and remote, occupied mainly
by ethnic groups including the Loa and Black Tai. Throughout our
travels, we'll have opportunities to admire centuries-old
pagodas. The shape of the pagoda is said to symbolize the human
attempt to reach beyond the constraints of earthly existence to
the perfection of heavenly forces. The pagodas bear witness to
the influence of Chinese invasion and occupation through the
centuries. We spend our next two nights in Dien Bien Phu.
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After breakfast we set out on our bikes to
explore the historically important area around Dien Bien Phu.
The French hoped to establish an impregnable base in the upper
end of a valley that the Viet Minh had used to make incursions
into Laos. By mid-1953, the French believed themselves secure in
several large, connected, fortified bases with mined perimeters,
containing two airstrips and about 16,000 men. Unfortunately for
the French, the bases would not hold. Under the leadership of
General Vo Nguyen Giap, the Viet Minh amassed a huge army and
managed to hide artillery in the surrounding steep ridges and
forests. Beginning in early March 1953, the Viet Minh started
pounding the French airstrips. The French could not destroy the
hidden artillery. Within five days the airstrips were destroyed
and the French had to be re-supplied with airdrops. With little
to no support from other countries, in May 1954 the French
succumbed.
Although it was a resounding victory for
the Viet Minh, many men died, including over 20,000 Viet Minh
and 7,000 French soldiers. Nature has regained most of the
scarred area, with only an occasional bombed tank and the
historical revolutionary ruins to witness the horrors of that
past. On our bikes, we will explore the historical areas and
other sites, returning to Dien Bien Phu for dinner and our
second night there.
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Today we continue our tour of northwestern
Vietnam, cycling along the winding roads that snake through
beautiful countryside. At times the terrain is steep but these
hills and mountains give us stunning panoramas that more than
compensate for our efforts. We pass through villages and
negotiate around water buffalo and farm animals loose on the
road. We'll see vistas of verdant forests, bright green fields,
and lush farmlands, framed by ribbons of rivers and waterfalls.
After our descent into the valley, we'll arrive in Lai Chau,
where we stay the night. (Note that this is old Lai Chau on
Highway 12, which will eventually be flooded by a dam on the Da
River. A city formerly called Tam Duong, to the northeast, has
now been renamed Lai Chau, to serve as the capital of Lai Chau
province.)
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Following breakfast we ride through more
magnificent scenery and vistas en route to Phong Tho. Along the
way we pass through mystical countryside inhabited by various
minority groups, enabling us to peek in on how these proud
people go about their daily lives. Most noticeable are the Dao
(pronounced “Zao”) women who, once married, shave their hair
and eyebrows and wear bright red turbans adorned with shiny
coins and trinkets. The Dao are fairly affluent and more
colorfully dressed than other minority groups such as the Black
Hmong, who live highest in the mountains and dress in blue-black
indigo. Notice that many Black Hmong women's hands are blue from
dyeing cloth with their cherished indigo plant.
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Today we wind our way eastward through valleys
and scenic hills filled with birdsong and waterfalls on our
route to one of Vietnam’s most celebrated hill stations, Sapa
(Sa Pa). We will cycle as far as To Binh Lu, where we load into
the support vehicle for the remaining 50 kilometers as we snake
our way up and around the terraced rice fields to Sapa. This
high mountain village was developed in the late 1800s to allow
the French an escape from the summer heat of lower, balmy
lowland Vietnam. Sapa's architecture reflects the French
influence. At an elevation of 1320 meters (4300 feet), the view
from Sapa is stunning. Across the valley, flooded rice paddies
artfully terrace up mountainsides, and looking further, clouds
play among verdant valleys, steep ridges, and blue alpine peaks.
Surrounding Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, which so reminded
them of home, the French nicknamed them the Alps – the
Tonkinese Alps. One alpine peak towers above the others. Less
than nine kilometers away, the peak defining the horizon is Fan
Si Pan (Phan Si Pang), which at 10,312 feet, is Indochina's
highest mountain.
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We have a full day to explore many of Sapa's
most colorful and interesting sights by bicycle. These include
the Red Dao village of Ta Phin, nestled on the floor of a
beautiful valley, and the picturesque Tay village of Ta Van. The
town of Sapa itself is not very large, with a few markets and a
scattering of streets tumbling down the mountainside, but every
Saturday night (our arrival day) its streets fill with women and
men from the surrounding mountains in a Hmong courting ritual
called the Love Market. (We're not making this up!)
Hmong men, known for their creativity,
will pursue a mate through song or ballad, trying to impress her
with tales of his endurance, strength, and craft. If he wins her
attention, then he will likewise be cleverly courted in return.
As the love banter continues, he may be able to grasp a piece of
clothing or embroidery. If the object has not been requested nor
returned by the end of the evening, then consent has been gained
to spend three nights of conjugal bliss together in the
hillsides and a union has been made.
We'll wander the town to experience the
early hours of the Love Market. Traditionally, tourists are not
pursued, but then again anything is possible here in Shangri-la.
Before breaking into song yourself, remember, that we have only
two nights here in Sapa.
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Following breakfast we embark on the 200 mile
return drive to the capital. Along the way we will have numerous
photo stops as we pass through various hill tribe villages. Back
in Hanoi, we will check into our hotel and perhaps have a bit of
time for some final shopping or sightseeing. This evening we
will enjoy a Farewell Dinner, sharing memories of our journey
and enjoying a final savory Vietnamese meal together.
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You might want to rise early today for a final
walk through one of Hanoi's parks, or watch Vietnamese
gracefully practicing Tai Chi near Hoan Kiem Lake. After
breakfast, you will have some free time for shopping before
transferring to the airport for your flight home.
Those staying for the trip extension to
Halong Bay will depart shortly after breakfast for their three
day adventure.
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After breakfast we depart for Halong Bay,
approximately three hours away. En route we have a short stop at
the Sao Dao center run for and by handicapped children. Upon
arrival at Halong Bay, we transfer to our air-conditioned junk,
the "Jewel of the Bay". Once we have settled in we can
begin our cruise around majestic Halong Bay accompanied by a
delicious lunch. After lunch we'll have the chance to explore
some of the limestone caves scattered around the bay. Then our
captain will find a secluded spot where we can swim in the clear
water of the bay, soak up the sun on the top deck or explore the
waters by kayak. After we have finished exploring for the day we
will retire to the junk. We can relax on the top deck using the
sun-tanning area or enjoy a refreshing drink from the bar. In
the evening our cook will prepare a splendid meal comprised of
fresh seafood dishes as well as traditional Vietnamese fare as
we weigh anchor in the heart of the bay. Those who are
interested can try night fishing from the boat.
Rising to the tranquil beauty of the bay
we have time for an early morning dip followed by breakfast.
This morning we continue to move around the bay to find more
secluded areas. Those who wish to do more kayaking have the
option of spending most of the morning with your kayaks and
returning to the Jewel for lunch. The kayaks are lightweight and
easy to use. The junk will act as a back up vessel following the
kayakers at all times. In the afternoon, we once again move
around the bay at a leisurely pace stopping to view more caves.
As the sun begins to set, why not relax in the Games room with a
refreshing drink and gaze upon the natural splendor of the day.
This evening, another tasty meal will be served on board.
On our final morning on the bay, we
continue to find more secluded areas to either swim or kayak in.
We will return to the main harbor before transferring to our
awaiting vehicle for a 3-hour journey back to Hanoi. The rest of
the afternoon and evening will be free. |
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We have left this final day for your own
exploration of Hanoi. There are no activities scheduled, so you
can take a leisurely stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, visit one of
the many art galleries, or check out one of Hanoi's trendy
restaurants. Or if you choose, you may book an earlier flight
for home today.
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Today is the official end of the extension. We
hope you have enjoyed your adventure in Vietnam and look forward
to seeing you again soon. Don't forget to pickup one more bottle
of snake wine before your leave (but pack it REALLY carefully!). |
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