|
|
|
The Swiss Alps are among the world's top
hiking destinations. Small mountain villages, well-marked
trails, and varied landscapes make this a hikers' paradise.
Combine that with our small, friendly group of gay men and
lesbians, and you've got a dream vacation!
Three impressive Alpine peaks
-- the Eiger, Jungfrau, and Monch -- rise abruptly from the
river valley in the central Alps. These Oberland Giants, as they
are known, form a constant backdrop to the shining green
meadows, ensuring a panorama of every-changing scenery for our
week of hiking here in the Swiss Alps.
|
|
|
|
The mountain scenery begins long before
you reach Grindelwald. Switzerland's rail system is among the
best in the world: Fast, comfortable, and efficient. As you pass
the picturesque lakeside town of Thun, you may resolve to return
to this pretty medieval town after your week of hiking.
Changing trains at
Interlaken, you'll see other hikers and climbers, the former
easily recognized by the hiking poles that nearly all
Europeans seem to favor; the latter by the ice-axes strapped
to their bulging backpacks. Grindelwald is the end of the
line, and as you step out onto the town's lively main street
after several hours on the train, one breath of mountain air
will quickly revive you.
Our hiking trip begins
with a 6:00 pm reception and orientation, followed by dinner,
and time to meet a fun group of gay and lesbian hikers.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This hiking week is designed to be
enjoyable for both more- and less-experienced hikers. Today,
you'll get several examples of the options that allow you to
tailor the activities to the level you want.
Those rarin' to go can hike
for the first hour. Others, who are feeling the altitude can
ride the Pfingstegg lift to cover the first 1300 feet of
altitude gain. (At 3500 feet, Grindelwald is well below the
altitude of Denver, but steady uphill hiking will nonetheless
be more tiring than at sea level.)
Those who are hiking up will
cross Grindelwald's glacier river, then we begin our ascent. An
abandoned marble quarry, once a source of jobs and income for
Grindelwald, provides an unexpected diversion. Two glaciers end
just outside Grindelwald. Today's hiking will take us along an
unspoilt alpine trail above the icy crevasses of the "Lower
Glacier." Soon we're hiking well above the glacier, with
changing views of the icy mass below.
Lunch today is at Stieregg, a
mountain restaurant that serves a surprisingly varied menu,
given its remote location. Now, as will often happen during
the week, you have a choice between an easier day (heading
back now) or continuing on, following a path that sometimes
gets much closer to the glacier itself, toward Schreckhorn, a
4078-meter peak. You won't get all the way to the summit, but
hardier hikers might get to the Schreckhorn hut before turning
back.
Our final stop is at
Gletscherschlucht, the narrow gorge whose vertical walls
were carved into the rock by the churning waters of the glacier.
A narrow boardwalk, jutting out from the cliff face, gives us a
close-up look at the sculpted canyon, as the water rushes below.
|
|
|
|
One of Grindelwald's appeals for hikers
is that by making use of lifts, buses, and cog railroads, you
can enjoy the valley's full range of scenery while making each
day more challenging, or less so.
This morning most of us will
probably choose to ride the lift up the north slopes, to a
spot named "First". But a few energetic souls may
elect to hike up, and meet us there.
From First we hike along an
easy trail to the blue mountain lake known as the Bachalpsee.
A magnificent green pasture filled with cows, bells tinkling,
extends down toward the valley floor. On a calm day, the distant
snow-capped peaks reflect in the lake's waters.
Then the trail thins out,
twisting beside a spiny ridge, past moonlike rock formations.
Descending past a cascading waterfall, we pass a lush patch of
wildflowers, and easily count a dozen varieties within an
arm's reach: Red, yellow, blue, purple, white, pink, lavender.
A late lunch is waiting at
the mountain inn of Bussalp. Here, hikers again have a choice:
To descend by foot, or on one of the ubiquitous yellow
"Post Bus" that serves so many small Swiss hamlets
such as this one.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Paragliding over the trails that we hiked
yesterday, you'll get a new perspective on the Grindelwald
valley today. No paragliding experience is necessary: You'll fly
tanden, with an experienced, licensed pilot.
For the remainder of the day,
you've got several enticing options.
Take the train to nearby
Thun, the delightful medieval city on a blue lake,
dominated by an imposing castle. Toot across the lake on an
old, renovated steamer, then hike along the shoreline.
Another easy day trip is
to Brienz, a charming Swiss town whose artisans are known
for their violins and wood-carvings, then ride Switzerland's
only surviving steam-powered cog railroad to the
mile-and-a-half high Rothorn.
Or visit Trummelbach Falls
in nearby Lauterbrunnen Valley. Here, every second, glacier-fed
streams pour up to 5,000 gallons of water cascade down a series
of ten waterfalls. Once hidden within a mountain, these cascades
are now visible through a series of tunnels and stairways.
|
|
|
|
Ride the Jungfrau cog rail train over
deep ravines and through mountain tunnels carved inside the
Eiger and Monch, to Europe's highest railroad station (3454
meters) on the massive Jungfrau mountain. From here you'll enjoy
views of the Aletsch glacier, the longest in Europe. Roam the
Ice Palace, carved into the blue glacier and decorated
year-round with intricate ice sculptures; enjoy a run of summer
skiing, or slide down the slopes on a snow disc.
If your legs need a rest today,
ride the train back down to Grindelwald. Otherwise, you can hike
part of the way back on the newly-opened Eiger trail, an alpine
path that follows the base of this immense mountain. We're right
under the Nordwand (North Wall) of the Eiger, a vertiginous
cliff that has defeated many a mountaineer. We won't try any
mountaineering ascents today, just a scenic hike, crossing the
narrow, twisted gorges of glacier-fed streams, then winding
through forest, until we emerge over (but on the other side of)
the "Lower Glacier" that we saw on our first day of
hiking.
In the evening, head into
Interlaken for an open-air performance of Schiller's William
Tell.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After several days of hiking here in the Alps,
you're feeling confident about the trails, about finding the
way, and about estimating your abilities. Today's suggested
itinerary gives you several opportunities to tailor activities
to your liking.
We begin with a train ride to
Lauterbrunnen, a picturesque village set in a cleft between two
towering cliffs. Waterfalls spout out along either side, as we
walk 45 minutes to Trummelbach Falls, a cascading series of 10
waterfalls, that tunnel right through a mountain, and which we
can view from tunnels carved into the rock.
After lunch back in the
village, we head up -- 930 vertical meters up, to be precise.
You have a choice of riding an aerial tram up to Wengen, perched
on a sunny plateau above us, or hiking up to it along a
switchbacking path. From Wengen, you again have a choice of
hiking or riding up to the next stop: Mannlichen. Some of us
will want to hike one of these segments; few hikers will be up
for ascending the entire 930 meters.
From Mannlichen, you can ride a
mountain cablecar right back to Grindelwald, but we hope you
won't: The high alpine trail over to Kleine Scheidegg is among
everyone's favorite. Gently descending as it passes around
cliffs and peaks, this trail offers an ever-changing panorama of
the mountains: The Eiger, the Monch, the Jungfrau.
|
|
|
|
The Swiss alpine peaks provide
magnificent scenery this week, but we won't often stand on their
summits. The Eiger and Monch are well beyond the reach of day
hikers.
The jagged peak of
Schwarzhorn, however, on a high crest to the north of
Grindelwald, is accessible by several trails, some easier,
some rougher. Hiking all the way there from Grindelwald makes
for a full day; the lift to First gives a head start to those
who want it.
As we descend, the
trail takes us along an area popular with marmots, and again
we enjoy a break while watching these gregarious, bushy-tailed
creatures.
Schynige Plateau offers
another option today, for those who want some serious hiking,
but not quite as much of a challenge as Schwarzhorn offers.
Beech trees give way to
firs, then forest yields to meadow, as the narrow-gauge
Schynige Platte Cog Railroad engine chugs up to the Schynige
Plateau, a high ledge with a panoramic view of the imposing
15-kilometer-long Bernese Oberland wall.
This is an invigorating
full-day of hiking. Portions of the trail follow a narrow
ridge, dropping to views of the Eiger on the right, and to the
placid blue waters of Lake Brienz on the other left. A cup of
hot tea at the improbable Weber Hut, held to the mountain by a
steel cable, will refresh you, while accordion music and an
inquisitive marmot provide entertainment.
The alpine wildflowers never
cease to impress us, as well. Here, with a different exposure,
we spot some new blossoms, each having found its niche in this
high environment.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Our hiking week officially ends this
morning; if you have early connections, you can rise and depart
as early as you'd like. Or you may want pack up, then squeeze in
one last hike.
If you've got extra vacation
time to spend in Europe, we suggest you save it for after
the trip, rather than before: Chances are, others in the group
will welcome company as they explore the culture and gay life in
Geneva, Zurich, Berne, and other Swiss cities.
|
|
|
