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The region of southern France known as
Provence offers enormous variety: Roman theaters, river gorges,
famous wine country, and walled medieval towns. Our Mistral bike
tour has been carefully planned to highlight many of Provence's
most fascinating sights, connecting them by small roads that are
every cyclist's dream.
The Mistral takes us through a
region of great variety and a robust history. Three bridges --
ponts in French -- symbolize this diversity. The Pont
d'Avignon, built in A.D. 1177, made Avignon a major crossroads of
Europe and helped lure the Papacy to this city during the Great
Schism. The Pont du Gard, erected by the Romans 2000 years ago and
still towering overhead (thus outlasting some bridges on the
Connecticut Turnpike by 1950 years) reminds us of the extensive
and lasting influence of the Romans. And the Pont d'Arc, a natural
rock arch over the Ardeche river, is but one of many natural
wonders that await us.
This is primarily a bike
vacation, but with many other activities available. You can
swim under the Pont du Gard and Pont d'Arc, explore
narrow streets that date to the Middle Ages, and enjoy the cuisine
for which France is famous. Each day, you'll feel yourself
immersed in a new dimension of this historic region.
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We begin in Avignon, a lively city
settled by the Romans that today remains an important cultural
center of France. Avignon reached its height in the 14th century,
when much of Europe was in chaos. Pope Clement V fled the anarchy
of Rome and made his home here. For 68 years, Avignon served as
the papal seat of seven Popes, each adding new embellishments to
the palace. Today the enormous maze-like Papal Palace, sitting
high on a rock, is a fascinating attraction for visitors.
Some in our group will
also recognize Avignon from the childhood song:
Sur le Pont, d'Avignon, l'on
y danse, l'on y danse
Sur le Pont, d'Avignon, l'on y danse tous en rond
The famous Pont d'Avignon, built
in 1177, still stands -- partially. For over four centuries, it
offered all of Europe the only permanent crossing of the Rhone
between Lyon and the Mediterranean, thus establishing Avignon as a
key center of commerce. Washed out by floods in the 17th century,
today the bridge goes only halfway across the river.
Our trip officially begins at
6:00pm with a reception, drinks and orientation, followed by
dinner. If you're in town by 4:00pm, join us for a walking tour of
Avignon's cobble-stoned streets, taking in the Papal Palace, a
ramparts catwalk overlooking the river, a hidden courtyard guarded
by scowling gargoyles, the terraced hilltop gardens adjacent to
the palace, the Pont d'Avignon, and the bustling town square.
Dinner is at a very special
spot: Bistrot Pierrat. Our friend, Alain -- the owner, chef,
waiter, and dishwasher -- is delighted to have a friendly gay
group come visit. While you may wonder how one person could
possibly prepare a good meal for a group of fifteen people, our
guests repeatedly praise Alain's home-style Provencal dinner as
one of the best they've had.
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Avignon to Uzes, 27 miles
Awake to the distant tolling of
church bells and the chirp of birds in the trees. Breakfast, and
then we're off!
As we cross the silvery Rhone,
glance back at Avignon's skyline: 14th-century church spires and
the turrets of the Papal Palace. A couple hours of cycling takes
us to the Pont du Gard, a 2000-year-old Roman aqueduct. This
architectural marvel is considered one of the 7 surviving wonders
of the ancient world: It carried water 33 miles from Uzes to the
town of Nimes, a total drop of a mere 55 feet. We'll spread out an
elegant picnic below this daunting structure as you climb to the
top -- or swim in the sparkling waters below.
Already you've discovered
what's so special about biking in France. We've searched out some
wonderful backroads, winding through apricot orchards and past
fields redolent with wild rosemary and thyme. In May and June,
watch for bright fields of poppies. In autumn, enjoy the
excitement of the grape harvest.
Pont Nicolas, an arched
medieval bridge, offers an enjoyable stop for those who take a
short detour. Soon we arrive in the former duchy of Uzes, a
picturesque village with much to see. An early Christian crypt
dates to the 4th century; the clocktower from the 12th; and
St-Etienne church from the 18th. The market square and grounds of
the ducal palace are particularly enjoyable.
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Uzes to Vallon Pont d'Arc, 46 miles
If you didn't have time to tour
the ducal palace yesterday, you may want to stop this morning.
Then comes a full and varied day of riding.
In the morning, we'll pass
the walled hilltop town of Lussan then follow a meandering forest
road. Re-energize with smoked ham and goat cheese, tomato, and
basil on a baguette, followed by a flaky pastry, as the swans keep
an alert eye for crumbs. Enjoy a game of boules before you start
biking again.
After lunch we bike along
the spectacular river gorges of the Ceze river. There's a secluded
bend down on the river where we've cooled off on hot days. Bike
past cherry orchards and Monteils, where stone barns have served a
dozen generations of farmers. You'll have an opportunity to visit
the limestone caverns of Orgnac. In Labastide-de-Virac, visit a
chateau that houses a museum of silk, silkworms, and the silk
trade, which once enriched this scenic town.
Finally, cross the Ardeche
river and make a tough choice. If you've still got energy, you
can head west to the scenic gorges of the Beaume River, with the
hulking Sampzon Rock, the squared ramparts and seven round towers
of Ruoms. Otherwise, follow the twisting riverside road. It winds
through two tunnels carved into the rock then past the Pont d'Arc,
a natural rock arch carved by the river. This is where you'll
probably want to take a dip on a hot day.
Our hotel, the Chames,
lies nestled on a quiet bend of this river just downstream from
the arch. The lawn along the river offers a perfect spot for a
pre-dinner wine tasting and reception, and more boules. After
dinner, we've been known to return to the Pont d'Arc to enjoy a
midnight dip, with rock and stars interplaying in the sky.
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Vallon Pont d'Arc to Pont-St-Esprit, 30 miles
Today's route takes us to the
top of the Ardeche Gorges, 1000 feet above the river. This
spectacular road goes on for 20 miles. You'll want to pull over
often to admire the views. Watch kayakers as they battle the
rapids below. Look for mountain goats in impossible places (and
occasionally, right on the road, if they think you've got food!)
We recommend a stop at one
of the two limestone caverns that are open to visitors. Over the
millennia, water trickling through the rock has created a fantasy
of stalagmites, stalactites, and rock sculptures. In one such
cavern, right here in the Ardeche gorges, archeologists recently
discovered some of the earliest cave paintings ever found.
After you descend down to
river level, cross the Ardeche and take an hour to stroll the
narrow streets of photogenic Aigueze. Enjoy a cafe au lait, then
visit the old stone ramparts for great views of the river and
valley.
Pont St. Esprit isn't far, but
there are two more options to consider first. A short detour on a
flower-lined road takes us to the Chapel of St. Agnes, a
picturesque 12th-century church in a quiet field. A longer option
leads to the Cascade du Satadet, where river currents have carved
potholes and winding waterfalls into the rock.
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Pont-St.-Esprit to Vaison-la-Romaine, 26
miles
We're entering wine country,
but that's not all this region is known for. Black truffles are
often hunted in the forests nearby, and the curious of palate may
want to linger over a truffle-flavored omelet at a cafe lunch.
Mont Ventoux looms ahead
as we bike. Though not high by alpine standards, Ventoux's
isolated location lends Ventoux a majestic presence in Provence.
Mountaineering was born here: Petrarch and his brother climbed the
mountain in the first recorded instance of humans ascending a
mountain just for the sport of it. Bike up it tomorrow if you wish
-- and if you can.
Today's route winds
through several small wine-making villages, Ste. Cecile, and
others. You can stay on our official route, with clear signs and
an easy day's cycling, but the adventurous will enjoy some of our
optional routes, along little-used byways past vineyards, goat
farms, and forests, as we make our way to Vaison-la-Romaine.
Our catalog promises one
wine-tasting on each trip, but with a little peer pressure we
can usually be persuaded to host another! The hilltop chateau
ruins offer a dramatic backdrop for a pre-dinner tasting and
get-together. Those who still have energy after dinner will want
to pay a visit to the chateau at moonlight, from which they can
look down on the twinkling lights of the village below.
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Neolithic tribes settled the valley here
4000 years ago. It was subsequently occupied by a Celtic tribe
known as the Vocontii, by the Romans, and again in medieval times
when the hilltop chateau was constructed across the river.
We'll spend two nights in
this history-filled town. Several biking options may lure you out;
but those looking for a day off the saddle will find that Vaison-la-Romaine
offers plenty to keep them busy.
The sprawling foundation of
a wealthy Roman's villa, the House of the Messii, fascinates
modern visitors. You'll see how hot air flowed under the floors to
keep the residents warm, while indoor plumbing kept them healthy.
Continue on to the museum exhibiting artifacts found in the area,
including various objects of worship and the only known statue of
Emperor Hadrian with his wife Sabina -- he was more often seen
with his boyfriend Antinous. Finally, roam the impressive outdoor
theater, extensively restored in the 1930s.
You'll also admire the Roman
Bridge. This single-arch bridge has endured 2000 years of use
and abuse, including a German bomb dropped on it in World War II,
and a 1992 flood in which a 50-foot wall of water carried off two
newer bridges and 30 people. Across the river lies the upper town,
where grand old buildings line the cobble-stoned streets below the
chateau.
A short and enjoyable bike
ride along shaded forest roads takes you to the hilltop
village of Seguret. Several shops in this delightful village offer
handcrafts you would be proud to take home. Toward the top of town
is the Michelin-starred restaurant, La Table du Comtat. A lunch
here will be long remembered.
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Vaison-la-Romaine to Avignon, 39 miles
It's time to return to
Avignon, but there's much more to see and experience before we get
there.
The Romans developed Orange
as a colony for retired veterans -- comfortable, but far enough
from Rome that disgruntled vets couldn't start a rebellion. We'll
stop at the well-preserved Triumphal Arch as we enter the city,
then admire the world's best-preserved Roman theater. Its'
excellent acoustics are still appreciated by audiences every
summer. A short walk to Orange's hilltop park offers a panorama of
red-tiled rooftops.
Just down the road is one
of the world's most famous wine centers: Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Every available inch of precious land is devoted to vines. There's
no better spot to sample some fine wine (and our van will be ready
if you decide to make a purchase). Incidentally, the soil here is
not as rocky as it first appears. Stones are placed under the
vines to absorb the bright daytime sun, radiating it back up in
the evening.
Overlooking town is the
structure that gave Chateauneuf-du-Pape its name: The Pope's
Summer Palace. The Popes of Avignon grew fond of the vineyards
here, and John XII selected it as the site of his new summer
"home". The palace survived for many centuries
afterward, only to be bombed by retreating Germans at the close of
World War II. Several walls still stand, overlooking the Rhone
valley.
Continue past fields of red
poppies, and soon we're in Avignon. You may want to arrive
early so you can tour the inside of the Papal Palace, or visit
Fort St. Andre across the river. Then get ready for a special
dinner at one of Provence's preeminent restaurants.
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The hardest thing about our trips is saying
goodbye to a wonderful group of new friends, and a charming region
of France.
If you've got extra vacation time
to spend in Europe, we suggest you save it for after the trip,
rather than before. Chances are there will be others from this
week's adventure who would like some company for a weekend in
Paris.
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