Is it the right vacation for you? This is our most strenuous, exotic and remote bike tour, featuring local food and lodging (including a village home stay), and averaging 30-70 miles a day over a mixture of both flat and hilly terrain. Roads may be rough and very bumpy. Note that due to the many hills, this is perhaps our most challenging ride. The reward? An amazingly intimate insight into the hill people of northwestern Vietnam and their landscape.

Testimonials about our trips: "This was our first trip with Alyson Adventures and it was the best vacation we've ever had!!"— Eric Britten, Anchorage, Alaska

"Far and away the best vacation I've ever had. Well planned with just the right balance of sightseeing, physical activity, great food, and most of all, fun people."— Susan Eaton, San Diego, Calif.

We start in Vietnam’s capital, Hanoi, a delightful mélange of traditional and contemporary styles strongly influenced by the French, Chinese, and Soviet styles, as well as by its Vietnamese heritage. For its size, Hanoi is accessible and friendly, with a youthful, energetic pulse. We'll visit ancient treasures by day and enjoy fine food and a taste of Hanoi's nightlife.

After spending one full day exploring the capital, we journey into the mountains and valleys northwest of Hanoi to experience up close the cultural diversity of rural Vietnam. We bike along meandering rivers, next to historic battlefields, down forest-clad mountainsides, and through mountain villages lost in time. We'll savor the diversity of Vietnamese cuisine, be it a simple bowl of pho noodles or an entire feast, and we'll delight in the views of terraced hillsides, waterfalls, and of Fan Si Pan, Indochina's highest peak.

This itinerary describes our inaugural September 2006 Cycling Vietnam tour. Our future tours will follow a similar itinerary, with even more biking, but just a few changes in the day-by-day itinerary.

1: Arrival Day

Most flights arrive in Hanoi in the late evening, so we have no official tour activities scheduled for today. However, if enough people are arriving early for the tour, our tour director may organize an informal walking tour of the city in the afternoon.

2: Hanoi

Today we have a full day and evening to explore the sights and wonders of Hanoi. After breakfast at the hotel, we'll see Hanoi's Belle Époque neighborhoods that evoke the French colonial era. One of our first stops is a visit to the complex dedicated to the national hero: the Ho Chi Minh Complex. Completed in 1975, the complex contains Ho Chi Minh’s granite and concrete mausoleum that is reminiscent of Lenin's tomb, the Ho Chi Minh museum, the beautiful Presidential Palace built by the French in 1901, and behind it, Uncle Ho's former stilt-house residence, where he resided from 1958 to 1969. It's quite an experience as you queue alongside Vietnamese people, many of whom have made a long pilgrimage to the site. Appropriate, respectful attire is required.

Shortly after the founding of Hanoi as Thang Long (“Soaring Dragon”) in the eleventh century, construction started on the Temple of Literature and what has become the National University. We visit the two entities built there: Van Mieu, built in 1070 as a temple to the Chinese philosopher Confucius, and Quoc tu Giam, built six years later as an elite institute established to teach the doctrines and teachings of Confucius and his disciples. Inside are 82 stone stelae (tablets) dating between 1484 and 1790, mounted on the backs of giant tortoises. The stelae, beautifully inscribed stone slabs, list the names, dates, places of birth, and achievements of over 1300 men who earned their doctorates here. The temple and university are architectural wonders honoring knowledge and those who pursue the rigorous path of learning.

After lunch, we will continue our tour, perhaps visiting the Museum of Ethnology, widely acknowledged as the best in the country, with an extensive display dedicated to Vietnam's 54 ethnic minority peoples, including traditional tribal houses.

Later we wander to legendary Hoan Kiem Lake, Lake of the Restored Sword, and the 13th century Ngoc Con Temple located on a tiny island in the middle of the lake. Hoan Kiem Lake, considered the center of the city, is the source of many legends. One Arthurian legend has it that in the 15th century Emperor Le Thai To vanquished the invading Chinese with the help of a magical sword. Not long afterward, while rowing on the lake, an enormous turtle seized the sword from his grasp. The Emperor took this to mean that peace was at hand, that the sword had been given back to its guardian spirit. History reveals that peace was ushered in for the next several centuries. The Emperor then renamed the lake in honor of his Restored Sword.

Before dinner we have a special Asian treat, a one hour cyclo (pedi-cab) tour through the Old Quarter: Also known as the 36 streets, this bustling area of narrow streets is home to literally thousands of small businesses and shopkeepers. Originally each of the 36 streets' names was related to the trade or guild formerly featured there and in large part the different trades remain close together: silks, silver, and antiques among others. It's also a great place to explore on foot with numerous photo and shopping opportunities. While breakfast and lunch are provided today, dinner is on your own, allowing you an opportunity to try your choice of Hanoi’s many excellent restaurants and cafés.

3: Hanoi to Son La

In the morning we drive out of Hanoi in our support vehicle, heading west to the town of Son La, site of a former French garrison. This will be our starting point when our cycling begins tomorrow morning.

Son La is located in a scenic valley inhabited by Tai, Muong and Hmong and other minority ethnic people. Vietnam's population is about ninety percent Viet (Kinh) with 54 ethnic minority groups comprising the remaining ten percent. Our journey will introduce us to many of these brightly dressed, friendly people. They are referred to by many names: to the French they are the Montagnards; to many locals they are hill tribes; but the current favored name is ethnic minority groups. Regardless of the term, each encounter with the local people will provide a smile and a wonderful memory. These people continue to live with the same customs and traditions they have for centuries, independently and in small rural communities scattered through the valleys and in the mountains. Many travel by foot, bicycle, or horse cart to larger towns to trade wares at weekly markets. For the next seven days we encounter them in their colorful, quiet life as we cycle by their lush farms and through quaint villages.

4: Son La to Dien Bien Phu (cycling: 70km/45 miles)

After a short drive to Tuan Gaio, our cycling begins through the visually stunning terrain of the Muong Thanh Valley to Dien Bien Phu. Long associated with the stunning defeat of the French, Dien Bien Phu is set in a valley surrounded by thick ancient forests on steep mountainsides and dotted with an occasional farm or village. With the French long gone, the area is once again rugged and remote, occupied mainly by ethnic groups including the Loa and Black Tai. Throughout our travels, we'll have opportunities to admire centuries-old pagodas. The shape of the pagoda is said to symbolize the human attempt to reach beyond the constraints of earthly existence to the perfection of heavenly forces. The pagodas bear witness to the influence of Chinese invasion and occupation through the centuries. We spend our next two nights in Dien Bien Phu.

5: Dien Bien Phu (cycling: 60km/37 miles)

After breakfast we set out on our bikes to explore the historically important area around Dien Bien Phu. The French hoped to establish an impregnable base in the upper end of a valley that the Viet Minh had used to make incursions into Laos. By mid-1953, the French believed themselves secure in several large, connected, fortified bases with mined perimeters, containing two airstrips and about 16,000 men. Unfortunately for the French, the bases would not hold. Under the leadership of General Vo Nguyen Giap, the Viet Minh amassed a huge army and managed to hide artillery in the surrounding steep ridges and forests. Beginning in early March 1953, the Viet Minh started pounding the French airstrips. The French could not destroy the hidden artillery. Within five days the airstrips were destroyed and the French had to be re-supplied with airdrops. With little to no support from other countries, in May 1954 the French succumbed.

Although it was a resounding victory for the Viet Minh, many men died, including over 20,000 Viet Minh and 7,000 French soldiers. Nature has regained most of the scarred area, with only an occasional bombed tank and the historical revolutionary ruins to witness the horrors of that past. On our bikes, we will explore the historical areas and other sites, returning to Dien Bien Phu for dinner and our second night there.

6: Dien Bien to Lai Chau (cycling: 120km/75 miles)

Today we continue our tour of northwestern Vietnam, cycling along the winding roads that snake through beautiful countryside. At times the terrain is steep but these hills and mountains give us stunning panoramas that more than compensate for our efforts. We pass through villages and negotiate around water buffalo and farm animals loose on the road. We'll see vistas of verdant forests, bright green fields, and lush farmlands, framed by ribbons of rivers and waterfalls. After our descent into the valley, we'll arrive in Lai Chau, where we stay the night. (Note that this is old Lai Chau on Highway 12, which will eventually be flooded by a dam on the Da River. A city formerly called Tam Duong, to the northeast, has now been renamed Lai Chau, to serve as the capital of Lai Chau province.)

7: Lai Chau to Phong Tho (cycling: 120km/75 miles)

Following breakfast we ride through more magnificent scenery and vistas en route to Phong Tho. Along the way we pass through mystical countryside inhabited by various minority groups, enabling us to peek in on how these proud people go about their daily lives. Most noticeable are the Dao (pronounced “Zao”) women who, once married, shave their hair and eyebrows and wear bright red turbans adorned with shiny coins and trinkets. The Dao are fairly affluent and more colorfully dressed than other minority groups such as the Black Hmong, who live highest in the mountains and dress in blue-black indigo. Notice that many Black Hmong women's hands are blue from dyeing cloth with their cherished indigo plant.

8: Phong Tho to Sapa (cycling: 50km/30 miles)

Today we wind our way eastward through valleys and scenic hills filled with birdsong and waterfalls on our route to one of Vietnam’s most celebrated hill stations, Sapa (Sa Pa). We will cycle as far as To Binh Lu, where we load into the support vehicle for the remaining 50 kilometers as we snake our way up and around the terraced rice fields to Sapa. This high mountain village was developed in the late 1800s to allow the French an escape from the summer heat of balmy lowland Vietnam. Sapa's architecture reflects the French influence. At an elevation of 1320 meters (4300 feet), the view from Sapa is stunning. Across the valley, flooded rice paddies artfully terrace up mountainsides, and looking further, clouds play among verdant valleys, steep ridges, and blue alpine peaks. Surrounding Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, which so reminded them of home, the French nicknamed them the Alps – the Tonkinese Alps. One alpine peak towers above the others. Less than nine kilometers away, the peak defining the horizon is Fan Si Pan (Phan Si Pang), which at 10,312 feet, is Indochina's highest mountain.

9: Sapa Loop (optional cycling day)

We have a full day to explore many of Sapa's most colorful and interesting sights by bicycle. These include the Red Dao village of Ta Phin, nestled on the floor of a beautiful valley, and the picturesque Tay village of Ta Van. The town of Sapa itself is not very large, with a few markets and a scattering of streets tumbling down the mountainside, but every Saturday night its streets fill with women and men from the surrounding mountains in a Hmong courting ritual called the Love Market. (We're not making this up!)

Hmong men, known for their creativity, will pursue a mate through song or ballad, trying to impress her with tales of his endurance, strength, and craft. If he wins her attention, then he will likewise be cleverly courted in return. As the love banter continues, he may be able to grasp a piece of clothing or embroidery. If the object has not been requested nor returned by the end of the evening, then consent has been gained to spend three nights of conjugal bliss together in the hillsides and a union has been made.

We'll wander the town to experience the early hours of the Love Market. Traditionally, tourists are not pursued, but then again anything is possible here in Shangri-la. Before breaking into song yourself, remember, that we have only two nights here in Sapa.

10: Sapa to Hanoi

Following breakfast we embark on the 200 mile return drive to the capital. Along the way we will have numerous photo stops as we pass through various hill tribe villages. Back in Hanoi, we will check into our hotel and perhaps have a bit of time for some final shopping or sightseeing. This evening we will enjoy a Farewell Dinner, sharing memories of our journey and enjoying a final savory Vietnamese meal together.

11: Departure or Extension to Halong Bay

You might want to rise early today for a final walk through one of Hanoi's parks, or watch Vietnamese gracefully practicing Tai Chi near Hoan Kiem Lake. After breakfast, you will have some free time for shopping before transferring to the airport for your flight home.

On selected departures, we will offer an extension to Halong Bay, which will depart from Hanoi on the last tour day.

Halong Bay Extension

After breakfast we depart for Halong Bay, approximately three hours away. En route we have a short stop at the Sao Dao center run for and by handicapped children. Upon arrival at Halong Bay, we transfer to our air-conditioned junk, the "Jewel of the Bay". Once we have settled in we can begin our cruise around majestic Halong Bay accompanied by a delicious lunch. After lunch we'll have the chance to explore some of the limestone caves scattered around the bay. Then our captain will find a secluded spot where we can swim in the clear water of the bay, soak up the sun on the top deck or explore the waters by kayak. After we have finished exploring for the day we will retire to the junk. We can relax on the top deck using the sun-tanning area or enjoy a refreshing drink from the bar. In the evening our cook will prepare a splendid meal comprised of fresh seafood dishes as well as traditional Vietnamese fare as we weigh anchor in the heart of the bay. Those who are interested can try night fishing from the boat.

12-13: Halong Bay: Junks, Caves, and Kayaks

Rising to the tranquil beauty of the bay we have time for an early morning dip followed by breakfast. This morning we continue to move around the bay to find more secluded areas. Those who wish to do more kayaking have the option of spending most of the morning with your kayaks and returning to the Jewel for lunch. The kayaks are lightweight and easy to use. The junk will act as a back up vessel following the kayakers at all times. In the afternoon, we once again move around the bay at a leisurely pace stopping to view more caves. As the sun begins to set, why not relax in the Games room with a refreshing drink and gaze upon the natural splendor of the day. This evening, another tasty meal will be served on board.

On our final morning on the bay, we continue to find more secluded areas to either swim or kayak in. We will return to the main harbor before transferring to our awaiting vehicle for a 3-hour journey back to Hanoi. The rest of the afternoon and evening will be free.

14: Departure Day

Today is the official end of the extension. We hope you have enjoyed your adventure in Vietnam and look forward to seeing you again soon. Don't forget to pick up one more bottle of snake wine before your leave (but pack it REALLY carefully!).